When you decide to buy property in Sicily, what is it in particular that you’re looking for? Is it a beautiful coastline, with clear waters and varied bays, coves and beaches? Perhaps you want to experience what it’s like to live inside one of Europe’s most complex and fascinating cultures. Or maybe you just want somewhere in the sun that’s convenient to escape to. The exotic and characterful peninsula of Capo Zafferano, just twenty minutes East of central Palermo, has it all.
When we talk about the Capo Zafferano peninsula we are referring to the spit of land that separates the Gulf of Palermo from the Gulf of Termini Imerese, crowned by Monte Catalfano. To the west is Aspra, on the east coast you will find Porticello, and inland are Bagheria and Santa Flavia.
This region is wonderfully convenient, less than an hour from the city’s Falcone-Borsellino international airport, but so quiet and peaceful that you would never dream you were just outside Italy’s fifth-largest metropolis. It originally grew up as a location for the rich and famous families of Palermo to build summer houses, and escape the humidity of the city with the fresh sea breeze and opportunity to take a daily dip in the waters of the Tyrrhenian.
It remains a popular place for the Palermitani to spend the summer, though it’s become far more accessible, but one of its nicest traits is that it’s still relatively undiscovered by international tourism, so it retains a strong traditional identity. That’s not to say that there aren’t overseas investors taking advantage of the beautiful scenery and affordable real estate market – we’ve actually helped over 80 buyers find homes here over the past decade. But you won’t find all-inclusive resorts, or coach loads of day trippers disturbing the calm of these easy-going seafront communities.
In this article we’re going to take you on a quick tour of some of our favourite spots in the area – including one that’s especially close to our hearts. Then we’ll run down some of the kinds of real estate you can expect to find here, and what kind of budget you might need to have. Lastly, we’ll talk about how we can help you find your dream property on Capo Zafferano and make sure it becomes as happy a home for you as it has done for us.
If you stand on the quay of the busy marina in the little fishing town of Porticello, with the yachts and trawlers at your back, and walk just one street inland towards the mountain that gives shelter to the harbour, you’ll come to the headquarters of one third of our family business! While we also have premises in Palermo and down the coast in Cefalù, Porticello is the place we think of as home. Any time you’re in the area please do drop by and introduce yourself to our friendly, multilingual team in person!
On top of the mountain are the remains of the ancient Phoenician city of Solunto, the first settlement in the area. While the Punic settlers appreciated the calm conditions in this secluded corner of what is today known as the Gulf of Termini Imerese, they needed the safety that came from living on the higher ground.
These days, life here is mercifully less dramatic, and so you can find houses right down to the sea. One famous example, in the little district of Sant’Elia, is built on a spit of land that allows it to be surrounded by water on three sides. This old fishing village is a little further up the coast but has an especially timeless feel, with colourful little fishing boats pulled up on the beach. A beautiful reef which is popular with divers, the Scoglio della Formica is protected by the FAI – Italy’s Foundation for the Protection of Monuments and the Environment.
If you prefer to enjoy the sea with your feet on dry land you have some great options – as well as the lovely crescent of sand in town you will find a perfectly photogenic rocky inlet, and just a little to the north is the Spiaggia Kafara, a larger, shingle-covered bay which is relatively quiet even in high season.
While Porticello is slightly bigger and more modern than Sant’Elia, its few thousand residents of Porticello have maintained a traditional lifestyle, with daily visits to the greengrocer, bakery and of course the daily fish market. Friends who have known each other a lifetime meet on familiar benches and family-run bars in busy piazzas and along the sea front.
There’s a surprising variety of restaurants, pubs and coffee spots in the small community, and Everything is within walking distance, wherever in town you call home. The seafront makes an ideal backdrop to an early evening aperitivo, and the picturesque promenade invites you to take a stroll along the water’s edge. To the south of the village is the Aciddara beach, a sandy bay with some bars and beach clubs that open in the summer.
Like Goldilocks finding the porridge that wasn’t too hot and wasn’t too cold, Santa Flavia is a great compromise, half way between the picturesque but small Porticello on the coast and the distinctly more urban Bagheria further inland. It’s actually close enough to both that it’s a walkable distance.
It’s big enough to have its own train station, which will take you into the city in about twenty minutes, and there’s definitely more in the way of supermarkets and urban infrastructure around here than down by the sea. The Soluntina Basilica is a 350 year-old church which was given a spectacular remodelling during the Baroque and remains a great example of the style – it also houses works by the important artists Ignazio Marabitti and Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Next door is the equally impressive Villa Filangieri, whose ornate gardens are open to the public and contain, amongst the colourful plants and flowers, some unusual animal inhabitants.
With about eight thousand people calling Santa Flavia home, and the good transport links – as well as the trains that will take you to Palermo and Messina, there is also a local bus service – it’s somewhere you could reasonably live without a car, especially if you enjoy cycling.
In the evening the town is quieter, although you can still find a crowd at the Babilonia pub near the station. Most people looking for a night out will head into Bagheria, so let’s take a look there next.
A large town of nearly fifty-five thousand people, the history of Bagheria goes back millennia, as witnessed by its name, from the Phoenician Bayharia, meaning land descending towards the sea. It really came to prominence in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, as the summer turf of the Palermitan aristocracy. Their aristocratic mansions are now the hallmark of the city.
Villa Valguarnera is a symbol of Bagheria, amongst the most spectacular and impressive villas in Sicily. It has been the backdrop for many Italian films and a commercial for Dolce and Gabbana directed by one of the town’s favourite sons, Oscar-winning Giuseppe Tornatore. Palazzo Butera, known locally just as ‘U Palazzo’ (the palace), is the oldest in the city. In its grounds is a museum of toys and waxworks.
The dramatic Villa Palagonia is surrounded by a fairy-tale garden filled with statues of gnomes, dragons and monsters of all kinds. The Gothic Villa San Cataldo is celebrated for its ornamental garden, Villa Cattolica hosts a museum dedicated to the work of Renato Guttuso, a twentieth-century painter and member of the Italian Senate (even his sarcophagus is on display!) and the Palazzo Aragona Cutò is now the municipal Library, with a fantastic roof terrace.
Modern Bagheria has a great nightlife, with hangouts like the beautiful terrace pub Bitta and the cosy winebar Verci – Vini e Merende always popular with locals. The Antica Focacceria has been serving pizza to loyal clients for over 170 years, but even better for our money is the gastro-pizza haven Binario 450. Not one but two of the city’s restaurants have been awarded the ultimate gastronomic seal of approval, the prized Michelin star.
Aspra is a seaside village on the other side of the headland, facing the Gulf of Palermo. At night the city’s lights put on a spectacular show, and you will also see the huge ships and liners making their way to and from what has been a globally important port since antiquity. Aspra, too, has a long story, with roots dating back to Sicily’s Arabian era. To the north is the impressive rocky silhouette of Monte Catalfano, a lovely nature reserve that can be explored on foot, with incredible views as a reward for your climb.
To the north of Aspra is Mongerbino, a district right underneath the nature reserve that really boomed in the 70s and 80s. Some of the most beautiful and impressive villas to be found anywhere on Sicily were constructed by wealthy families. Earlier in the twentieth century, the first ever Club Med restort to be built outside of France was founded around a stunning rocky cove which came, accordingly, to be called the Baia dei Francesi. The club later moved along the coast to Cefalù but the beach is still there for all to enjoy.
The coastline in this area is rocky and dramatic, with fabulous little coves to discover down steep footpaths or, even better, by boat. The Spiaggia del Sarello, Ippocampo and the Tre Piscine are all worth your time, and further along the coastal road to Porticello you will find the sandy beach of the Lido del Carabiniere. The Arco Azzurro geosite is a gorgeous natural arch that reaches over the water – Italy’s favourite chocolate maker, Baci Perugina, made it famous in an advert shot here in the 1970s.
Man-made attractions in the area include the Church of the Beata Vergine Maria Addolorata, whose frescoes were painted by Renato Guttuso (the one with the sarcophagus on display!) and the Anchovy museum, a treasure trove of ancient maritime traditions whose main attraction is, in many ways, its curator Michelangelo Balistreri. As well as a historian, Balistreri is a storyteller extraordinaire, one of the last masters of the Sicilian performance tradition of Cuntu.
The region’s property market is varied, with homes on offer to suit any budget.
If you are looking for a small apartment, perhaps one that you can buy as a holiday home without needing to spend big money, then you can find great value in Santa Flavia and, despite its picturesque seaside backdrop, Porticello. We have helped a number of clients buy second homes here, and of course our prominence in the area and excellent working relationships with the local authorities mean that we can help manage any renovation work you need to do with the minimum of fuss and on the quickest possible timescale. It goes without saying that we can also connect you to trustworthy local professionals who understand the standards that our international buyers expect.
Aspra and the coast up towards Mongerbino is a slightly more expensive option, thanks in large part to its superb sea views. There are some superb Tuscan-style villas and sea-view properties to be found along this sensational stretch of coastline. One or two of those incredible millionaire villas we mentioned earlier are available, with incredible views and in many cases direct access to the sea. If you’re looking for something truly special this is where we would suggest you start.
Bagheria is a real story of two halves. The town itself is organized around long, straight streets where you can find small apartments, which may or may not need refurbishment. We are particularly fond of the central area around Corso Umberto, Corso Butera, Via Quattrociocchi and Villa Palagonia, where much of the city’s best bars and restaurants are gathered.
Stepping outside the city, however, you’ll find that the municipality extends surprisingly far inland, passing through a rural area towards Solanto and Casteldaccia where you may find a country house with land and hillside views for a good price, whilst still being just a short drive from the beach.
If you have been persuaded to consider buying a house in Santa Flavia, Porticello or anywhere else on the Capo Zafferano, the first bit of great news is that it’s one of the most popular areas in our catalogue of properties. We recommend starting with a search for Santa Flavia and then exploring with the map, to make sure you don’t miss any of the apartments or villas we have already found and listed for you.
Alternatively, if you find a property which has been listed for sale by another agency, we can still be of help. One option would be for our agents to go and view the home on your behalf. We will prepare a detailed report and can also give you a virtual tour using video calling while we are there.
If you contact us before you talk to any other agency about a property (this part is really important), we may even be able to act on your behalf and broker the sale ourselves. We have excellent relationships with our colleagues in this region and are usually able to find an arrangement with them which allows you to buy with the confidence of doing everything through us, in your own language.
We have a very successful project management team, and some of our most satisfied clients have been the ones we’ve helped not only to buy but to renovate their homes, or in some cases even build from scratch.
If you are buying a vacation property, you might want to cash in on your asset during the time you can’t be there in person. If that’s the case then let our sister company, Solemar Sicilia, lend you their advice and perhaps even their property management services. They have been helping discerning holidaymakers find high quality accommodation in Sicily for many years.
If you have any more questions at all about buying a house in Santa Flavia or the surrounding area, whether you know exactly where you’re looking already or you’re in need of some inspiration or guidance, we’re here to help. It’s always great for us to meet new neighbours, and any time you pick up the phone or are able to visit our office in person you’ll be assured of a warm welcome and a great source of help.
